Azelaic acid has been a fan favorite of mine in my skincare routine, as a result of its remarkable ability to treat acne, rosacea and hyperpigmentation. But the question I had in the beginning was, How do I layer azelaic acid in my skincare routine?
If you’ve ever wondered how to effectively incorporate this powerhouse skincare ingredient into your routine, you’re in the right place.
In this guide, we’ll discuss everything you need to know about how to layer azelaic acid with other products for maximum effectiveness. Let’s dive in.
What is Azelaic Acid?
Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid derived from grains like barley, wheat, and rye, but unfortunately, we can’t reap its benefits by simply eating these foods. It has to be extracted and manufactured in the lab.
One of the key reasons behind azelaic acid’s popularity is its ability to target multiple skin issues simultaneously. Whether you’re dealing with acne, hyperpigmentation, rosacea, or uneven skin tone, azelaic acid can work wonders for improving the overall appearance and health of your skin.
Moreover, azelaic acid is renowned for its gentle yet effective nature, making it suitable for all skin types, including sensitive, rosacea-prone skin and acne-prone skin. Unlike some harsher skincare ingredients, azelaic acid is unlikely to cause irritation or excessive dryness.
Benefits of Azelaic Acid
Azelaic acid offers a plethora of benefits for various skin concerns, making it such a versatile and valuable addition to your skincare routine.
Here are some of the main benefits of incorporating azelaic acid into your skincare regimen:
- Acne Treatment: It helps to unclog pores, reduce inflammation, and inhibit the growth of acne-causing bacteria Propionibacterium acnes (p. acnes)
- Hyperpigmentation Reduction: it helps in fading hyperpigmentation and dark spots. It evens out skin tone and diminishes the appearance of discoloration over time.
- Anti-Inflammatory Properties: It is an excellent choice for calming redness, soothing irritation, and reducing the appearance of rosacea and other inflammatory skin conditions.
- Antioxidant Protection: It helps to neutralize free radicals and protect the skin from environmental damage caused by factors such as pollution and UV radiation.
- Exfoliation: Azelaic acid promotes gentle exfoliation by accelerating the natural shedding of dead skin cells, resulting in smoother, more radiant skin without irritation.
How Azelaic Acid Works for Skin
Azelaic acid works wonders for the skin by targeting multiple mechanisms to address various skin care concerns at the same time. This is freaking magical!!
Here’s a breakdown of how azelaic acid works its magic:
- Antibacterial Properties: Azelaic acid possesses potent antibacterial properties, making it effective against acne-causing bacteria, such as p. acnes. By inhibiting the growth of these bacteria, azelaic acid helps to reduce inflammation and prevent new breakouts from forming.
- Anti-Inflammatory Action: Azelaic acid exhibits anti-inflammatory effects, which can help calm redness, soothe irritation, and reduce swelling associated with inflammatory skin conditions like acne, rosacea, and eczema. This anti-inflammatory action contributes to a clearer, more even complexion.
- Melanin Inhibition: Azelaic acid inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase, which is involved in the production of melanin—the pigment responsible for skin color. By slowing down melanin production, azelaic acid helps to fade hyperpigmentation, dark spots, and melasma, leading to a more even skin tone.
- Exfoliation and Cell Turnover: Azelaic acid promotes gentle exfoliation by accelerating the shedding of build-up of dead skin cells from the skin’s surface. This exfoliating action helps to unclog pores, prevent the formation of comedones (blackheads and whiteheads), and improve overall skin texture and radiance.
- Antioxidant Protection: Azelaic acid mops up free radicals and protects the skin from oxidative stress caused by environmental aggressors like UV radiation, pollution, and cigarette smoke. This antioxidant protection helps to maintain healthy skin, prevent premature aging, and reduce the risk of damage to skin cells.
- Normalization of Keratinization: Azelaic acid helps to normalize the process of keratinization, which is the formation of keratin—a protein that makes up the skin, hair, and nails. By regulating keratinization, azelaic acid prevents the buildup of dead skin cells that can clog pores and contribute to acne and other skin issues.
Who Is Azelaic Acid For?
Azelaic acid is a skincare powerhouse suitable for a wide range of individuals seeking solutions for various skin concerns:
- Acne-Prone Skin: Azelaic acid is beneficial for those with acne-prone skin. Its antibacterial properties help to target acne-causing bacteria, reduce inflammation, and prevent new breakouts from forming.
- Hyperpigmentation: If you struggle with hyperpigmentation, dark spots, or uneven skin tone, azelaic acid can be a game-changer. By inhibiting melanin production and promoting cell turnover, azelaic acid helps to fade discoloration and restore a more even complexion.
- Sensitive Skin: Unlike other harsh acne-fighting ingredients, azelaic acid is gentle enough for sensitive skin types. Its anti-inflammatory properties help to soothe redness and calm irritation making it a suitable option for those with delicate skin.
- Oily and Combination Skin: Azelaic acid works wonders for those with oily skin or combination skin types. Its ability to regulate sebum production helps to minimize excess oiliness and shine, while its exfoliating properties help to unclog pores and prevent the formation of blackheads and whiteheads.
- Aging Skin: Azelaic acid offers benefits for aging skin. Its antioxidant properties help to protect the skin from environmental damage and oxidative stress, which can contribute to premature aging. It helps improve skin texture while minimizing fine lines and wrinkles.
How to Layer Azelaic Acid
Knowing what order to place your skincare products in your daily routine is imperative in ensuring you get the most bang for your buck.
- First start with a clean face. Wash your face with a gentle cleanser and pat dry. This preps your skin to absorb the azelaic acid and other products more effectively.
- Next, depending on what other skincare ingredients are in your routine and what formulation of azelaic acid you’re using, you want to layer in the order of thinnest to thickest consistency.
- Apply a thin layer of azelaic acid to your face. Gently massage it into your skin, focusing on areas where you want to target specific concerns, like acne or hyperpigmentation.
- Once absorbed, you can layer on your other skincare products as usual. Just remember to follow the order of thinnest consistency to thickest. This means starting with lightweight serums and finishing with heavier creams or oils.
- If you’re using other active ingredients, like retinoids or exfoliants (AHAs or BHAs), you may want to alternate days or use them at different times of the day to prevent any form of irritation.
- Don’t forget the sunscreen! Azelaic acid can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so it’s essential to apply a broad-spectrum SPF during the day to protect your skin from UV damage.
How long does it take to see results with Azelaic acid
Like any skincare ingredient, consistency and patience are key when using azelaic acid.
If incorporated into your routine consistently, once or twice a day, you would need to give it at least 6-8 weeks to see optimal results, granted that you use it in the right order.
Azelaic acid needs time to work its magic, so be patient with your skincare journey. Results may take time, but with continued use, you’ll start to notice improvements in your skin’s texture and tone.
Safety Tips and Considerations
- Patch Test: It’s essential to always do a patch test on a small area of your skin to prevent potential irritation or adverse reactions.
- Start Slow: When incorporating azelaic acid into your routine for the first time, always start with lower concentrations and gradually increase the frequency of use. This allows your skin to acclimate to the ingredient and reduces the risk of sensitivity.
- Be Consistent: Consistency is key when using azelaic acid. Follow the instructions of use on the product or as instructed by the dermatologist.
- Patience: Rome wasn’t built in a day, and neither is perfect skin. Give azelaic acid time and you’ll start to notice improvements in your acne, skin texture, and tone.
- Consult a Dermatologist: If you have any concerns or questions about incorporating azelaic acid into your skincare routine, don’t hesitate to consult a dermatologist.
Potential Interactions and Side Effects
While azelaic acid is generally well-tolerated, some individuals may experience mild irritation or dryness, flaking, itching or burning sensation particularly when first starting treatment. If you notice any signs of skin irritation, such as redness or flaking, reduce the frequency of use or consult with a dermatologist for alternative options.
Some skincare ingredients, like alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs), require a specific pH level to be effective. Using these products directly before or after azelaic acid may alter its pH and reduce its efficacy.
It’s best to separate the application of pH-dependent ingredients from azelaic acid or consult with a dermatologist for personalized advice.
If you’re already on certain prescription-strength treatments for acne or other skin conditions, such as retinoids or benzoyl peroxide, it’s essential to discuss their compatibility with azelaic acid with your dermatologist. But it is generally advised to alternate time of application of azelaic acid product while on retinol or benzoyl peroxide.
Where to Buy Azelaic Acid Products
Azelaic acid is readily available over the counter and via prescriptions. It comes in different formulations and different strengths. Depending on the skincare needs of individuals, you would need different strengths. Check out this post for more about the formulations and strengths Azelaic acid comes in, and to get my personal review about Azelaic acid.
Over-the-counter options will suffice for mild cases of acne, rosacea, or hyperpigmentation. If dealing with severe cases of these skin conditions, you would need a prescription from your board-certified dermatologist.
Alternatively, If you don’t have access to a dermatologist, there are options for accessing a dermatologist online all thanks to telehealth. Platforms like Apostrophe or Maple are great options to get your prescription online for a small fee, and you get the product delivered to your doorstep. (P.s. I’m not affiliated with any of them).
I also came to know of a way to get prescription-strength azelaic acid products over the counter from Chemist Direct, a credible pharmaceutical store located in Australia. Unlike the US or Canada, Azelaic acid 15% and 20% are available over the counter in Australia for a fraction of the cost, and they ship worldwide.
Conclusion
Azelaic acid is a versatile and effective skincare ingredient that can address a range of common skin concerns, from acne to hyperpigmentation. By incorporating azelaic acid into your skincare routine and following the tips outlined in this guide, you can harness its full potential and achieve radiant, healthy-looking skin.
Remember to start slow, patch test first, and be consistent in your usage to see the best results over time. Additionally, be mindful of potential interactions with other skincare ingredients and always prioritize sun protection when using azelaic acid.
If you have any concerns or questions about incorporating azelaic acid into your skincare routine, don’t hesitate to reach out to a dermatologist for personalized advice. They can provide tailored recommendations based on your skin type and specific concerns.
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